COLOMBIA • LA SALVAJINA // MEDELLÍN

La Salvajina is about a 2 hour drive south form Cali. After you enter San Francisco the road gets horribly bumpy as it doesn’t have pavement yet, and it stays like this until you arrive. Its get a little better and more even eventually, but it feels like solid 6 hours of being thrown around in the car. Not very pleasant - but oh so worth it! La Salvajina is a an absolute gem in the middle of the mountains. We stayed at the family farm which consisted of two little brick wall houses which covered our fundamental needs, but provided the most stunning view of the valley. Outside, the hills were covered in banana trees, jungle and plantain trees as far as the eyes could see. 100 meters away form the farm was the natural waterfall pool. So beautifully placed, a waterfall which had been modified to a safe stone pool with a bridge and roof of which you could gaze at the view of the lake. The water was freezing but as long as the sun was shining and you kept moving, it was all good. 

We climbed down the valley to the lake, here the water was hotter and very comfortable. We were not allowed to swim out across the water because it was very deep in the middle, and apparently if you got tired and startet sinking a little, there was this odd type of seaweed tall enough to reach your legs which would get you tangled and eventually drown you. We wore or shared life wests at all given times. Across the water was a hill where the soil was bright orange. If you tossed water on it, it became incredibly slippery, so we made ourselves a little slide. Little did we know that just further around the corner was a gigantic hill made by the locals. As soon as we spotted it, we ran over. Milton and his primas were screaming as the went down, I only watched cause I had managed to almost break my finger at the little slide, also I dived into a rock and sliced up my hip, as soon as we came down to the lake. I felt very in flow with nature that day.

Food was being cooked at all given times at the outdoor kitchen which was a bong fire and pots, pretty much. Potatoes, corn cob, chicken soup, huge steaks and this amazing thing called giso - a simple mix of spring onions, garlic and tomatoes which tasts like heaven on a arepa which is a bread made out of corn. We only stayed one night of which after it got pitch black, Milton and I decided to go for a walk along the road altho there was no light what so ever. The moonlight helped creating silhouettes so we could see the road,  and you could hear an orchestra of insects, lizards, birds and god knows what else lurking in the jungle, observing our every step. On the walk back we walked rather fast. Our vision was clear and we could see a dark large shadow right in front of us, we lit our torch and there was two huge beautiful wild horses which had strolled down the street. We almost walked right on them, thankfully they were very peaceful. The rest of the night was spent sleeping then waking up to remove large insects which had crawled on to us during the night. If big insects freak you out, you might wanna bring a tent to this place. 

See more photos from La Salvajina HERE

The next morning was swimming and eating on repeat, as evening came we drove back to Cali. I was so tired, and all I wanted was to go to bed and have a peaceful nights sleep, but we had barely an hour to repack our belongings and head down to the central bus station. We were gonna catch he night bus to Medellín. It was fairly cheap, about $18 for two people to ride six hours through the night along the mountains. I don’t know if paying more would have made any difference, cause this ride is by far the worst I have ever experienced in my entire life. There are no high ways between Cali and Medellín, so the bus rode along little steep paths around the mountains. I actually thought we were gonna die. I’m so grateful we rode in the dark, cause with all that bumping, tilting and swinging, I would have started crying if I actually saw the bottom of the mountain walls. In fact I did start crying but not because of the driving. The bus stopped for a little, my bladder felt like it was exploding, and I wasn’t gonna go through the next four hours, trying to not pee myself. But as soon as I had gotten my pants down in the bathroom, the bus started moving again. I said f*ck it and went for it, which ended with me walking over to Milton at our seat, crying and demanding our water bottle so that I could clean myself. I strongly recommend not taking this bus ride. You deserve better. 

The was light at 5 am, the mountain revealed its lush thick jungle, and its beauty made the ride so much more peaceful. And then there she was, Medellín. It was like driving right into the Netflix show Narcos, which I highly recommend btw. Being in a country of which you’re watching a highly entertaining show about its history, makes everything - the beauty and the ugly, more captivating. All the mountain hills of the entire city was covered in slums; I found it incredibly beautiful. As soon as we stepped out of the bus, the very first Milton did was start skateing this half pipe that was actually a part of the bus station some how, while I was desperately trying to find a bathroom to get some soap. After sanitising, we jumped in an Uber and made our way downtown to meet Milly - Milton’s prima. After collecting some food, and rinsing away the sins of the bus ride, we slept the entire morning and afternoon till Milly and her boyfriend Vic returned home from work.

Out exploring, I was so impressed with how maintained and modern downtown Medellín was. There were clubs and restaurants everywhere, streets were decorated in bright colourful decorations which screamed salsa in my eyes. The vibe was so peaceful and chill. People were out and about carelessly enjoying themselves in the gentle darkness, amongst the fairly lights and tourches which shaped the streets. I had heard how Medellín is supposed to be one of Colombia’s most dangerous city’s, perhaps it is, and we were just really well taken care of, but I truly never felt any worry as we stumbled tipsy and happy through the night.

I couldn’t wait for the sun rise, we all woke up at 6 am or something ridiculous, ate and got out of the apartment and planned how to visit one of the mountain tops where a park by the name Parque Arví was located. The lungs of Medellín; an ecological nature preserve and Pre-Hispanic archeological site which you access by taking the public metro cable over Medellín. This place is huge. We spent a whole day, and barely explored the tip of its iceberg. Getting there was both incredibly beautiful and horribly scary. We started the journey by taking an Uber which drove through downtown and climbed the hills towards the Metro station, which we learnt later we could have reached easily without almost breaking his car. The hills were the steepest I’ve ever seen, and it amazed me how many people who actually lived in suburbs such as. The higher we got, the more uncertain the Uber driver was if the car was gonna hold. The car was lagging and as we drove straight up a hill, where I’d look out the back window, feeling I might cause the car to tip backwards. But we made it. After paying about 10 000 pesos each, we got in a metro cart. Vic was joking about the potential likeliness of the whole cart falling off, since it looked like it was only connected via a hook and wheel. Milley started freaking out. The view was incredible. It looked like something out of a movie. An entire city rising up from the mountain walls. 

At the park we paid for a guided hike through parts of the forest. It’s not illegal, but its highly recommended not to walk alone as many people have been injured by doing so. Our guide would stop and tell us stories of accidents and abnormalities, and everyone would circle her to listen, while I’d play around with Mocho, a pup that just always follows along the guide’s trips. The Medellín accent was to sharp and fast for me to comprehend any word she said. She told one story of an archaeologist who’d come to the park for pleasure. He has been hiking through great forests for years so the guides trusted in him when he requested to walk by himself. But after wandering for only an hour he found something had happened to the path he came from. It had changed. Paths he had followed had suddenly disappeared, covered by a great wall of bushes and plants, he was lost. He walk through another path, only to see that this one too, would disappear, and a new one would appear right in front of him as he turned around, without making a sound. He believed he was being played by a Colombian wood elf who followed him and changed his paths. The archeologists was missing for three days and when he finally arrived he told the guides of how the elf had made him walk for ages, but also showed him where to collect food and water. The guide explained that some of the florals of the forrest, can make you hallucinate, but that one must not deny the fact that there might be creatures in the woods, paying attention. Milton asked if she actually believed the archaeologist of which she explained that she had worked in these woods for over 11 years. She knew them like her own pocket, but one day, while escorting a group just like ours, she’d been walking in front of the group, informing of facts then turn back around to see the path in front of her, completely vanish. Non the guests noticed. She would then have to take a new path she hadn’t seen before and the same thing kept happening. Without trying to cause panic amongst the crowd she’s tell everyone to take a break while she’d look around. She’d never seen this part of the forest before and had no idea where to walk. She had to call for help, and her co workers would have to come look for them while they wait. Then suddenly the same path they had entered the forrest with, appeared. 

I didn’t see any of this black magic, but I did see magic. Huge mighty trees, tall bushes with floras in bright yellow, pink and red blooming, before turing into berries. Large butterflies in all kinds of colours. Squirrels and beautiful birds. It surprised me how the woods sort of reminded of forests from back home, just bigger.

See more photos from Medellín HERE

It was hard leaving Medellín, its a city I truly wish we could have spent more time in. That goes for the whole country. I often caught myself thinking ‘I can see myself living here’ especially in Cartagena. The place and its people. What is it with Colombians that give them this confident look in their eyes. There’s this sensuality, and this pride. A strength, that lifts the air. Colombia is a country with such a grand heart in the people, and beauty and fertility in the land. I was sad to see several locations where trash would float, enormous amounts of pollution hurting the land, and people living under horrible conditions without any food or shelter. Whenever possible, Milton would give the remains of our food to anyone who looked hungry. I wish there was more that could be done there and then.

One thing that I did not expect to experience in Colombia at all, was how much family is a priority above everything. I was immediately taken into and loved by Milton’s family, and it was so inspiring to see how much time and love everyone gave each other. I might be wrong, but I feel that in Norway, the US and several other places, it’s looked down upon if you’re over the age of say 24 and still Iive at home, as this might suggest that you’re not independent enough to take care of yourself. In Colombia, it doesn’t matter what age you are. Its common to continue to live with your parents, and grandparents, and even establish a family of your own, which will all live together. It was amazing to observe, to see how everyone took everyone’s needs in consideration first. You can’t help but feeling this urge to contribute. So much respect, especially for the elders, and such gentle care for the youngest. I think this experience alone, is what has stuck with me the most since leaving Colombia. This country is so rich in every aspect, except its economy. I cannot stress how much I recommend this amazing place, and I strongly suggest traveling with a local if possible, or if nothing else, someone who speaks Spanish. It will make you learn Spanish slower, but it will make life easier.

This country has become so dear to my heart, and I’m so grateful for that. It feels like its included more colours to my life, even after leaving it so long ago. I can’t wait to return.

Thank you so much for reading, I hope you enjoyed and that my writings and photos have perhaps created a hunger in you to one day explore this radiant place yourself.

D x